So before I buy sound fonts I wanted to know what would happen if I order off my phone cuz my laptop is busted and I’m not certain how it works, any advice anyone?
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Buying soundfonts - by: 26jhoran
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Saber problem - by: Arnoita
Hi, I recently recive my mystery box saber and it work very well with 3 sound fonts I think it has sabercore 3.0. So I install sabercore 3.0 on my pc and I plug in my saber, I change some parameter and when I finish I click on "Burn to chip" and I close sabercore to early and when I restart sabercore 3.0, it doesn't detect my saber and now my saber is blocked but it still have the switch light on and the speaker on. Can someone help me please ?
PS: Sorry for my English I don't speak this language everyday.
PS: Sorry for my English I don't speak this language everyday.
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Getting Excited - by: BobJenk
Alright boys, so it's been just over 6 weeks since I've placed my order (champion tier prodigal son in green, real original right?), I've been able to distract myself pretty well up until recently, But I dunno man, starting to get excited. I systematically check my email at least twice and hour, and everytime I feel a little spark of hope that I'll see that wonderfull "Shipped" email. Hopefully it gets finished up soon, will post a review when it does!
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I have a big problem with my Renegade Champion Tie - by: Slime
I have my Renegade with Champion Tier only one month and today in the morning i switched it on and ist arctic blue colour changed to mint or something like this also the Sound was gone.
so PLEASE tell me what that is
so PLEASE tell me what that is
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TLJ Novel Crashcourse Review - by: Eddlyss64
I will be perfectly honest. If you did not like The Last Jedi, the novel is not going to change your mind. While I've had no real reason to rewatch TLJ save for the parts that I did enjoy (anything with Kylo Ren, basically), I did go into the novel hoping certain things would at least be explained, or elaborated upon.
I got a lot of what I wanted. That was both a disappointment and a relief.
Almost everything that the novel added, I enjoyed reading; Luke's connection and opinions on the Force and the Jedi (several nods to the old EU were made there), the entire background of the First Order formed from Palpatine's Contingency (I half hoped for a mention of Thrawn, but I knew that if he'd appeared on the pages, then that would've already been spoiled for me), Poe's trust in Finn and his peers... even Rose, whom I've more or less ignored save for trying to rewrite her as an interesting soldier in Rewriting Canto Bight, got some interesting development, and her relationship with Finn did actually do things.
But the problem I have is that almost nothing that I've just mentioned was in the movie. Nothing was explained to give character motive and sense, nothing was expanded on. The movie almost seems empty in comparison to the novel. I've been thinking about how the movie doesn't have a very long shelf life, and it should be noted that this novel is an explanation for why. Nothing makes sense in TLJ as of now, and Rian basically left J.J a dumpster fire with which to wrap up all the loose ends. I miss when George wrote the story. I don't agree with all of his plot turns, but at least the stuff he would've written would've been a strong, flowing story, and not just things happening for reasons.
I'll probably be writing up my thoughts on the movie as a whole at some point, whenever I get around to it. Until then, cheers.
I got a lot of what I wanted. That was both a disappointment and a relief.
Almost everything that the novel added, I enjoyed reading; Luke's connection and opinions on the Force and the Jedi (several nods to the old EU were made there), the entire background of the First Order formed from Palpatine's Contingency (I half hoped for a mention of Thrawn, but I knew that if he'd appeared on the pages, then that would've already been spoiled for me), Poe's trust in Finn and his peers... even Rose, whom I've more or less ignored save for trying to rewrite her as an interesting soldier in Rewriting Canto Bight, got some interesting development, and her relationship with Finn did actually do things.
But the problem I have is that almost nothing that I've just mentioned was in the movie. Nothing was explained to give character motive and sense, nothing was expanded on. The movie almost seems empty in comparison to the novel. I've been thinking about how the movie doesn't have a very long shelf life, and it should be noted that this novel is an explanation for why. Nothing makes sense in TLJ as of now, and Rian basically left J.J a dumpster fire with which to wrap up all the loose ends. I miss when George wrote the story. I don't agree with all of his plot turns, but at least the stuff he would've written would've been a strong, flowing story, and not just things happening for reasons.
I'll probably be writing up my thoughts on the movie as a whole at some point, whenever I get around to it. Until then, cheers.
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ASP part swap - by: Danielbs80
So i had originally intended these to look lile this but im wondering would it look better with the bodies swapped? Maybe it would give the bottom lightsaber more of a graflex look. I had the graflex in mind when puttting it together cause i wanted my own version of a graflex or inspired.
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[FS] - ASP Stunt w/NBv3 - by: IINerfII
Hello everyone! Today I am offering an ASP build I did a year or so ago. The starting price will be $200 with free shipping to the contiguous USA only for the installed saber and blade plug. There will be no blade or charger included, just the saber and blade plug. Transaction will be done through Paypal.
Here she is:
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It's a stunt build, but it has a Nano Biscotte v3 card inside. So why is it a stunt? PLEASE READ!!
The card has a defect that I didn't find for a long time. No matter what settings for sensitivity are enabled, the saber will constantly do swings if held with the pommel straight up. Therefore, I've decided to sell it as is as a stunt saber with flash on clash. In this way it is fully functional, if not better than the average stunt.
The build contains the following:
- Complete ASP Saber w/Blade Plug
- NBv3
- rB/Amber/White Tri-Cree LED
- 3.7v 2600mAh Wired 18650 w/Recharge Port (and silver knurled kill key!)
This saber will be sold as is, with the potential to upgrade to a functioning (but slightly glitchy) sound saber with the purchase of just a speaker! The hilt was used for light to medium dueling, so there is some scuffs and scratches on the hilt. Again, the saber will be sold exactly as shown, with the exception of the blade. Thanks for reading!
Here she is:
It's a stunt build, but it has a Nano Biscotte v3 card inside. So why is it a stunt? PLEASE READ!!
The card has a defect that I didn't find for a long time. No matter what settings for sensitivity are enabled, the saber will constantly do swings if held with the pommel straight up. Therefore, I've decided to sell it as is as a stunt saber with flash on clash. In this way it is fully functional, if not better than the average stunt.
The build contains the following:
- Complete ASP Saber w/Blade Plug
- NBv3
- rB/Amber/White Tri-Cree LED
- 3.7v 2600mAh Wired 18650 w/Recharge Port (and silver knurled kill key!)
This saber will be sold as is, with the potential to upgrade to a functioning (but slightly glitchy) sound saber with the purchase of just a speaker! The hilt was used for light to medium dueling, so there is some scuffs and scratches on the hilt. Again, the saber will be sold exactly as shown, with the exception of the blade. Thanks for reading!
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Shorter lead time - by: jedi lantern
How is it ironically possible that saberforge,s current shorter lead time actually feels longer even though you know you are gonna get your order quicker , it's like the laws of life and physics don't apply
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New NBv4 build in the works - by: Danielbs80
I plan on ordering another asp lightsaber so im making the electronics for it so otll be ready to go.
Already ordered the NBv4 from TCSS and a 28mm speaker, led switch and recharge port off ebay(the same kind saberforge sells) but for munch cheaper since they ate coming from china direct. I have plenty of 26 gauge wire and some good 18650 batteties so I should get my first peices shortly to start the built. the saber ill be making will only have a 3.8 in body so im going to have not put anything on a chassis for now. Im just gonna solder up some wires to where everything needs to go and solder the speaker and keep everything unmounted for now so ill be able to work it in the more cramped space of the smaller body and prolly use foam to hold it together since i think itll be to short for an actual chassis but ill be doing it with all of u and show yalls every step of the way. I plan to order the actual saber prolly closer to christmas time whenever a good sale comes along. Ill have to measure my battery and if its the right length I may just mount the board and speaker to the battery and use velcro similar to what saberforge does. Stay tuned for my update. Should be getting the board in the next day or so.
Already ordered the NBv4 from TCSS and a 28mm speaker, led switch and recharge port off ebay(the same kind saberforge sells) but for munch cheaper since they ate coming from china direct. I have plenty of 26 gauge wire and some good 18650 batteties so I should get my first peices shortly to start the built. the saber ill be making will only have a 3.8 in body so im going to have not put anything on a chassis for now. Im just gonna solder up some wires to where everything needs to go and solder the speaker and keep everything unmounted for now so ill be able to work it in the more cramped space of the smaller body and prolly use foam to hold it together since i think itll be to short for an actual chassis but ill be doing it with all of u and show yalls every step of the way. I plan to order the actual saber prolly closer to christmas time whenever a good sale comes along. Ill have to measure my battery and if its the right length I may just mount the board and speaker to the battery and use velcro similar to what saberforge does. Stay tuned for my update. Should be getting the board in the next day or so.
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Metal Lathe - by: Shai Kah
So I have an idea for a saber I want to get someday, but it is nothing like what Saber Forge, Ultra Sabers, Kyber Light, Vader's Vault, or any of the other websites I have looked on have available, including Saber Forge's ASP system. That said, I have used a wood lathe at a friends home to turn pieces of wood we had cut from trees into random items. I would imagine that turning aluminum such as what SF uses would not be that different, but I may be mistaken. If anyone would be able to help that'd be great, as I do have a few questions.
1) I know I would need a metal lathe rather than a wood lathe. Is there any specific aspects I would need in order to turn aluminum over other metals? And how expensive are these lathes generally?
2) The difference between a wood and metal lathe, how much is there exactly?
3) Where could I get the material to make my own parts?
4) how can I make the parts hallow with the 1in ID? just a 1in diameter drill?
5) I obviously will be making the saber in 4 parts, emitter, switch, body, pommel. How can I make threading for the parts?
if I come up with other questions I'll be sure to drop them here. Otherwise if anyone can answer these that'd be awesome. I would like to make this saber If I can all by scratch, 100% my own, including making the wiring and learning soldering, so if I ever do take on this project I will be sure to post my progress on the forums.
1) I know I would need a metal lathe rather than a wood lathe. Is there any specific aspects I would need in order to turn aluminum over other metals? And how expensive are these lathes generally?
2) The difference between a wood and metal lathe, how much is there exactly?
3) Where could I get the material to make my own parts?
4) how can I make the parts hallow with the 1in ID? just a 1in diameter drill?
5) I obviously will be making the saber in 4 parts, emitter, switch, body, pommel. How can I make threading for the parts?
if I come up with other questions I'll be sure to drop them here. Otherwise if anyone can answer these that'd be awesome. I would like to make this saber If I can all by scratch, 100% my own, including making the wiring and learning soldering, so if I ever do take on this project I will be sure to post my progress on the forums.
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VIRTUAL SABER BUILDER??? - by: Trusty MCoolGuy
What happened to the virtual saber builder??? I was going to make my own saber but I cant ![:(]( ":(")
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Sound coming out of emitter - by: Danielbs80
Something i just noticed witj my champion asp is that a lot of sound is coming from the emitter almost like it has a speaker at that end as well. Its so strange because i was trying ro lessen the sound ny butting my palm over the flat pommel i have and it had no effect! When i do the same with my other asp saber that i installed my own electronics in it will completely muffle out the sound so why not this one?
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Saberforge Adept V2 Weathered - by: Execute66
Finally, I received my Weathered Adept. This is a seriously awesome thin neck! Mire videos to follow, this is the unboxing only.
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ASP Lightsaber parts help - by: rpeters3
Hello Everyone,
I was wondering if you guys could help me with something.
I originally posted asking if people give their opinion on which lightsaber I should get,
but I decided to get something a little different.
Instead of getting Saberforge to
build my lightsaber I was going to order there set of parts:
ASP Redeemer Emitter
ASP Thin Neck Adapter 02
ASP Switch Section 05
ASP Couplers Male-Female x3
ASP Redeemer body
ASP Redeemer pommel
And all the electronics to go with it that would make a champion tier.
I just had a few questions.
1. Is it difficult to make a lightsaber for someone who has never made one before?
2. Based on this set of parts, would my lightsaber be secure or does it need an adhesive?
3. I have heard it is difficult to secure the switch piece, how can I go about securing it?
4. Do I need to purchase a kill key?
5. I am concerned the electronics inside will rattle, is there anyway I can fix that from happening?
6. Is it difficult putting a thin neck saber together and are there an video tutorials of how to put one together? I worry about putting the LED in for the thin neck.
7. Also how long do parts take to come in?
I was wondering if you guys could help me with something.
I originally posted asking if people give their opinion on which lightsaber I should get,
but I decided to get something a little different.
Instead of getting Saberforge to
build my lightsaber I was going to order there set of parts:
ASP Redeemer Emitter
ASP Thin Neck Adapter 02
ASP Switch Section 05
ASP Couplers Male-Female x3
ASP Redeemer body
ASP Redeemer pommel
And all the electronics to go with it that would make a champion tier.
I just had a few questions.
1. Is it difficult to make a lightsaber for someone who has never made one before?
2. Based on this set of parts, would my lightsaber be secure or does it need an adhesive?
3. I have heard it is difficult to secure the switch piece, how can I go about securing it?
4. Do I need to purchase a kill key?
5. I am concerned the electronics inside will rattle, is there anyway I can fix that from happening?
6. Is it difficult putting a thin neck saber together and are there an video tutorials of how to put one together? I worry about putting the LED in for the thin neck.
7. Also how long do parts take to come in?
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3D printing parts - by: Danielbs80
I ordered a 3d printer last night and will arrive by Thursday and I've been mucking around with tinkercad to make a chassis so I will have something ready to print when it arrives. So far it's pretty basic and not finished with it yet. I'm going to need to make it into gcode so the printer can read it. From what I' hear I'll need a slicer or I donno if tinkercad can export it as gcode.
Here's what I have so far
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It has a place for the battery to slide in and on the other side a spot for the NBv4 board and on the top a spot of the extender with a channel for wires and some decorative stuff on the sides to also reduce the amount of material.
Here's what I have so far
It has a place for the battery to slide in and on the other side a spot for the NBv4 board and on the top a spot of the extender with a channel for wires and some decorative stuff on the sides to also reduce the amount of material.
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Metal Lathe - by: Shai Kah
So I have an idea for a saber I want to get someday, but it is nothing like what Saber Forge, Ultra Sabers, Kyber Light, Vader's Vault, or any of the other websites I have looked on have available, including Saber Forge's ASP system. That said, I have used a wood lathe at a friends home to turn pieces of wood we had cut from trees into random items. I would imagine that turning aluminum such as what SF uses would not be that different, but I may be mistaken. If anyone would be able to help that'd be great, as I do have a few questions.
1) I know I would need a metal lathe rather than a wood lathe. Is there any specific aspects I would need in order to turn aluminum over other metals? And how expensive are these lathes generally?
2) The difference between a wood and metal lathe, how much is there exactly?
3) Where could I get the material to make my own parts?
4) how can I make the parts hallow with the 1in ID? just a 1in diameter drill?
5) I obviously will be making the saber in 4 parts, emitter, switch, body, pommel. How can I make threading for the parts?
if I come up with other questions I'll be sure to drop them here. Otherwise if anyone can answer these that'd be awesome. I would like to make this saber If I can all by scratch, 100% my own, including making the wiring and learning soldering, so if I ever do take on this project I will be sure to post my progress on the forums.
1) I know I would need a metal lathe rather than a wood lathe. Is there any specific aspects I would need in order to turn aluminum over other metals? And how expensive are these lathes generally?
2) The difference between a wood and metal lathe, how much is there exactly?
3) Where could I get the material to make my own parts?
4) how can I make the parts hallow with the 1in ID? just a 1in diameter drill?
5) I obviously will be making the saber in 4 parts, emitter, switch, body, pommel. How can I make threading for the parts?
if I come up with other questions I'll be sure to drop them here. Otherwise if anyone can answer these that'd be awesome. I would like to make this saber If I can all by scratch, 100% my own, including making the wiring and learning soldering, so if I ever do take on this project I will be sure to post my progress on the forums.
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VIRTUAL SABER BUILDER??? - by: Trusty MCoolGuy
What happened to the virtual saber builder??? I was going to make my own saber but I cant ![:(]( ":(")
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Veteran USA | Weathered w/QC DR/Y LEDs - by: OvrcAHst
This is Nova.
One of the few New that formed part of the Apprentice Line’s recent expansion.
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There’s a greater appreciation for the smaller hilts, light in its weight, sturdy in its construction and really very comfortable to wield. The design aesthetics held solid appeal from the symmetrical flanged emitter, the milled slots for shine through, restrained use of accent cues to promote detailing.
A well rounded saber.
Quick Connect LEDs in Deep Red and Yellow, fitting colours for the weathered finish.
Deep Red ‘cause Why Not? And ‘cause when going Red, it’s gotta be Deep.
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Not a great degree of difficulty with swapping out the LED modules, any more so (including Elites) than usual when trying to strategically feed the joined connectors back into the blade holder. Takes a little getting used to (again) but as long as you don’t force it (you can gauge by feel any resistance) it reaches the point as far as it will go before needing the assistance of the provided blade plug to finish it off – to optimally align the modules position relative to the external position of the setscrew retention.
The only drawback specific to this hilt design and its chosen position for the LED retention is when it’s installed with QC LEDs. Because of the extra internal space required for the joined connectors, there’s less than optimal bite of the retention screw onto the module itself.
Picture above shows the bite mark from the retention screw and rather than biting it more centred to the heatsink of the module (as it usually would), it grazes the edge. Not the end of the world but it just makes ensuring that the resting position needs to be on-point.
With a fixed-wired LED (ie without QCs) it wouldn’t be a problem as with the absence of the joined connectors, it would enable the module to sit more centred to the retention screw. The only other presence that would add to the internal space with the wires (depending on LED colour) would be the heatshrunk resistors
(but these occupy little space by comparison).
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This saber was the result of an Etsy purchase. Significantly quicker (compared to Main Site) from Order placement to received notification of Shipping Notice to actual transit and eventual delivery. But this has always been known.
Order itself was placed March 10.
Shipping Notice received March 20. USPS picked up the package from SF same day.
Item delivered (slight delay as it ran into Easter Long Weekend) April 3.
(Meanwhile, a separate Order for only parts, nothing on pre-order, placed January 01 is in oblivion)
Order Notes/Comments:
US pronged smart charger* | brass covertech | brass aluminium knurled killkey |
brass Elite blade plug | 32 inch blade.
Order comments (in my experience) has been hit and miss. All of above was correctly supplied (credit to SFCS this time) with the exception of the blade plug. What was supplied was the equal OD type (ie face cap and stock = the same aka Lazerforge type).
Not a big deal. Have enough blade plugs to choose from anyway (as pictured in first pic, a non SF blade plug).
* I specifically requested a US pronged smart charger as an exercise but also to gain inventory of spares
since I have surplus of Australian pronged smart chargers.
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I opted for the weathered finish over the standard for one primary reason (other than preference), the anodising applied over the raw aluminium, eliminates any sharp edges.
It also creates a more suitable canvas for me to then strategically strip the anodising to suit my own tastes (or as directed) as the end result often varies greatly from the standard finish, regardless of whether I polish it or don’t.
For curiosity, there had been rumours that the method of application with the weathering process was changed, making it result more actual than clinically done. While there is some improvement to the weathering process on this hilt compared to others from previous V2s, it still falls short, but is what it is and remains acceptable.
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This illustrates the two retention setscrews on the saber and is shared on the underside ie. The covertech side.
The upper one is retention for the blade/blade plug.
The lower one for the LED module.
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Interestingly, contrary to the general consensus of Apprentice construction/assembly being one piece with the exception of the pommel, the emitter is two parts ie. Emitter shroud over the blade holder. The two retention setscrews detailed above and their respective functions also double (& share the same pilot holes) as the shroud retention.
This remains consistent to Heretic (that I illustrated in a separate thread) and with Renegade as pictured below.
Am yet to determine if the (suspected) grip body is also a two part assembly ie shroud over sub-hilt. For now, it looks to be glued and at risk of compromising the internal electronics, it will go unanswered for I am not the sabers primary handler (hence the chosen sound option).
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The primary difference however is that Renegades emitter shroud is actually (female) threaded
to the (male threaded) blade holder.
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The two sides of the switch section.
Black, red-lit (supplied default to match the primary LED colour chosen) AV switch &
2.1mm offset recharge port with external killkey.
![]()
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One of the few New that formed part of the Apprentice Line’s recent expansion.
There’s a greater appreciation for the smaller hilts, light in its weight, sturdy in its construction and really very comfortable to wield. The design aesthetics held solid appeal from the symmetrical flanged emitter, the milled slots for shine through, restrained use of accent cues to promote detailing.
A well rounded saber.
Quick Connect LEDs in Deep Red and Yellow, fitting colours for the weathered finish.
Deep Red ‘cause Why Not? And ‘cause when going Red, it’s gotta be Deep.
Not a great degree of difficulty with swapping out the LED modules, any more so (including Elites) than usual when trying to strategically feed the joined connectors back into the blade holder. Takes a little getting used to (again) but as long as you don’t force it (you can gauge by feel any resistance) it reaches the point as far as it will go before needing the assistance of the provided blade plug to finish it off – to optimally align the modules position relative to the external position of the setscrew retention.
The only drawback specific to this hilt design and its chosen position for the LED retention is when it’s installed with QC LEDs. Because of the extra internal space required for the joined connectors, there’s less than optimal bite of the retention screw onto the module itself.
Picture above shows the bite mark from the retention screw and rather than biting it more centred to the heatsink of the module (as it usually would), it grazes the edge. Not the end of the world but it just makes ensuring that the resting position needs to be on-point.
With a fixed-wired LED (ie without QCs) it wouldn’t be a problem as with the absence of the joined connectors, it would enable the module to sit more centred to the retention screw. The only other presence that would add to the internal space with the wires (depending on LED colour) would be the heatshrunk resistors
(but these occupy little space by comparison).
This saber was the result of an Etsy purchase. Significantly quicker (compared to Main Site) from Order placement to received notification of Shipping Notice to actual transit and eventual delivery. But this has always been known.
Order itself was placed March 10.
Shipping Notice received March 20. USPS picked up the package from SF same day.
Item delivered (slight delay as it ran into Easter Long Weekend) April 3.
(Meanwhile, a separate Order for only parts, nothing on pre-order, placed January 01 is in oblivion)
Order Notes/Comments:
US pronged smart charger* | brass covertech | brass aluminium knurled killkey |
brass Elite blade plug | 32 inch blade.
Order comments (in my experience) has been hit and miss. All of above was correctly supplied (credit to SFCS this time) with the exception of the blade plug. What was supplied was the equal OD type (ie face cap and stock = the same aka Lazerforge type).
Not a big deal. Have enough blade plugs to choose from anyway (as pictured in first pic, a non SF blade plug).
* I specifically requested a US pronged smart charger as an exercise but also to gain inventory of spares
since I have surplus of Australian pronged smart chargers.
I opted for the weathered finish over the standard for one primary reason (other than preference), the anodising applied over the raw aluminium, eliminates any sharp edges.
It also creates a more suitable canvas for me to then strategically strip the anodising to suit my own tastes (or as directed) as the end result often varies greatly from the standard finish, regardless of whether I polish it or don’t.
For curiosity, there had been rumours that the method of application with the weathering process was changed, making it result more actual than clinically done. While there is some improvement to the weathering process on this hilt compared to others from previous V2s, it still falls short, but is what it is and remains acceptable.
This illustrates the two retention setscrews on the saber and is shared on the underside ie. The covertech side.
The upper one is retention for the blade/blade plug.
The lower one for the LED module.
Interestingly, contrary to the general consensus of Apprentice construction/assembly being one piece with the exception of the pommel, the emitter is two parts ie. Emitter shroud over the blade holder. The two retention setscrews detailed above and their respective functions also double (& share the same pilot holes) as the shroud retention.
This remains consistent to Heretic (that I illustrated in a separate thread) and with Renegade as pictured below.
Am yet to determine if the (suspected) grip body is also a two part assembly ie shroud over sub-hilt. For now, it looks to be glued and at risk of compromising the internal electronics, it will go unanswered for I am not the sabers primary handler (hence the chosen sound option).
The primary difference however is that Renegades emitter shroud is actually (female) threaded
to the (male threaded) blade holder.
The two sides of the switch section.
Black, red-lit (supplied default to match the primary LED colour chosen) AV switch &
2.1mm offset recharge port with external killkey.
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FS-ASP Early Exile Redeemer . $300 USD - by: Vechaljian
For sale 300 USD PayPal shipped. (International subject to extra fee's)
1x ASP Redeemer with weathered grenade section( kind of early Obi-wan Exile feel), Spark 2(in chassis)- C1- blue/blue C2-white/white, 28mm bass speaker, 18650 battery, I made a change to the switch cover, it uses a magnet to hold it on the switch, to access kill key/RCP simply slide forward, also its a metal printed cover. To access the SD card remove pommel, very carefully and slowly UN-screw the first section of the Body(see picture). This is a AS-IS sale, It does work fine, charge etc. Sale includes the Hilt, the Kill Key, and the homemade blade plug...The blade, charger and allen keys are up to you.
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1x ASP Redeemer with weathered grenade section( kind of early Obi-wan Exile feel), Spark 2(in chassis)- C1- blue/blue C2-white/white, 28mm bass speaker, 18650 battery, I made a change to the switch cover, it uses a magnet to hold it on the switch, to access kill key/RCP simply slide forward, also its a metal printed cover. To access the SD card remove pommel, very carefully and slowly UN-screw the first section of the Body(see picture). This is a AS-IS sale, It does work fine, charge etc. Sale includes the Hilt, the Kill Key, and the homemade blade plug...The blade, charger and allen keys are up to you.
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Sabercore 3.0 swings jumbled - by: Danielbs80
Ever since I got this sabercore lightsaber The Swinging can get jumbled up at times especially if I'm twirling about. I'm thinking the problem has to be a software setting on the soundboard which I can't change using the software because I've already tried to just about every setting possible over the course of many weeks. Perhaps a firmware update to resolve this issue is in order. Maybe it has to do with the timing. In the video I had my swing sensitivity set to 20% and just prior to that I had it set to 5% and it would still give me that same problem and I find if I have the setting any higher than 20% I'll get more jumbled up sounds when I'm not even twirling it.
I was just listening to the video and it may be hard to detect it sounds a lot more obvious in person but what I'm talking about is with a saber core when I spin it there will be three sounds itll go whoosh and then it would be something like a hiccup in there and then another whoosh at the end and with my Nano biscotti when I start the spin downward it'll go wooosh and then on my upward motion as I go down again to finish it'll go wooshe again so it sounds like the way it should I think
I was just listening to the video and it may be hard to detect it sounds a lot more obvious in person but what I'm talking about is with a saber core when I spin it there will be three sounds itll go whoosh and then it would be something like a hiccup in there and then another whoosh at the end and with my Nano biscotti when I start the spin downward it'll go wooosh and then on my upward motion as I go down again to finish it'll go wooshe again so it sounds like the way it should I think
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